The first capital of Guatemala was founded on the site of a Kakchikel-Maya city, now called Iximche, on July 25, 1524 -the day of Saint James- and therefore named Ciudad de Santiago de los Caballeros de Goathemalan (City of Saint James of the Knights of Guatemala). Naturally, St. James became the patron saint of the city. After several Cakchiquel uprisings, the capital was moved to a more suitable site in the Valley of Almolonga on November 22, 1527, and kept its original name. When this city, now named Ciudad Vieja, was destroyed on September 11, 1541 by a devastating mudflow emanating from the Volcán de Agua, the colonial authorities decided to move once more, this time to the Valley of Panchoy. Cuidad Vieja continues to get more than its share of mud from Volcan de Agua every rainy season. So, on March 10, 1543 the Spanish conquistadors founded present-day Antigua, and again, it was named Santiago de los Caballeros. For more than 200 years it served as the seat of the military governor of the Spanish colony of Guatemala, a large region that included almost all of present-day Central America and the southernmost State of Mexico: Chiapas. In 1566 King Felipe II of Spain gave it the title of"Muy Noble y Muy Leal" ("Very Noble and Very Loyal").
In 1773, a series of earthquakes destroyed much of the town, which led to the third change in location for the city. The Spanish Crown ordered (1776) the removal of the capital to a safer location, the Valley of the Shrine, where Guatemala City, the modern capital of Guatemala, now stands. This new city did not retain its old name and was christened Nueva Guatemala de la Asunción (New Guatemala of the Ascension) and its patron saint is Our Lady of Ascension. The badly damaged city of Santiago de los Caballeros was ordered abandoned, although not everyone left, and was referred to as la Antigua Guatemala, or Old Guatemala.
When we arrived in Antigua and got settled, we called Ricardo and arranged to meet for breakfast at the farm the next day. Armed with umbrellae we started to explore and were pleased by what we saw. We discovered that one of the destinations we sought, the restaurant La Peña de Sol Latino, was only three blocks away. La Peña is owned by a cruising couple we met while we were both clearing into Guatemala in May. Mary is an engineer and is the logistics arm of the business. Mary's husband, Bill, was away in the states at the time. He is a musician and plays at the restaurant with their Guatemalan partner, Pacho. We had dinner there this first night in Antigua and listened to the Andean music with pleasure. The most expensive dish is only 72 Q. and since it featured Lorenzo's, Emilia's and Ricardo's macadamia nuts we had that...a grouper filet with barbequed vegetables. Yummy! Read more for yourself--Click on the URL below--
http://www.lapenadesollatino.com/en/about/index.htm
As promised, Ricardo picked us up the next morning and brought us through Cuidad Vieja, where he lives and on to the eight acre plantation, Vahalla. It is an "experimental farm" where Lorenzo has developed hundreds of strains of macadamia nut trees. It is a tourist destination as well and the small gift shop is where they sell their various products, give talks about the farm and serve food at the nearby garden-setting tables. 
The breakfast Ricardo had prepared for us was three large macadamia flour pancakes topped with macadamia nut butter, topped with their own blueberry marmelade and honey with fresh fruit 
The farm has donated thousands of these trees to native farmers in the hopes that they can realize a harvest in four to seven years that is relatively easily maintained and provides a nutritious food to add to the basic diet of beans, rice and coffee. He showed us the operation where the nuts are husked and sorted. The equipment they use is home built and pretty basic and it could be copied by the native growers as well so that they could begin processing the nuts too.
Check their website for more info--Click on the URL below--
After a very informative and relaxing breakfast Ricardo took us to visit the village of San Antonio Aguas Calientes where there is a weaving market and museum. A woman rose from her loom to show Barb some of her wares and I took this photo of where she left her work.
We returned to Antigua to resume our sightseeing.
There are active or ruined churches or cathedrals on almost every block. Some of the ruins are open for a fee (30 Q) and have very pretty grounds.
The next morning, setting out from our Posada Juma Ocag hotel we had a tour arranged (tour companies are everywhere in Antigua) to go to the active volcano Pacaya (100 Q. each + 40 Q. for the park fee.) This is a must do! An experience like this needs to be on your "Life List" (or Bucket List if you prefer.) On this trip, we were warned ahead that we would enjoy the climb to the treeline aboard a horse. Disembarking from the shuttle van, heading straight for the horses and by-passing the children renting hiking sticks was the plan. The first offer for a mount was 75Q. each. That dropped to 60 and then to 50 Q. finally. I heard of a deal closed at 40 Q. soon after, but I hope that our horses got fed a little better after the trip up. The trail is almost a continuous climb for about four km. and we where glad to be on horses being led by a native woman on foot and a boy urging the horses on from behind. These horses worked and arrived at the end of their climb breathing hard and sweating. We still faced a climb above treeline across the ash. Our destination was the shoulder via the trail visible above Barb's head. Beyond that, the park rangers would not allow us to go.
By the time we arrived at the lava flow, we didn't need to go any farther. Walking on the loose ash was difficult and sliding toward the molten lava was a real possibility. I doubt that visitors could approach this closely in a U.S. run park. Several visitors toasted marshmallows over the lava. To be standing next to flowing lava was an amazing experience.
The photo below is in lower light than it appears, at twilight in fact. The glow of the lava flows are much more evident as we began our hike down. From time to time glowing rock would tumble downhill to the right drawing appreciative responses from our group.
It was good to spend a day relaxing and people watching in the central square readying ourselves for our next trip... to Lago Atitlán. That will be our next installment. Until then, be well.
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